Mont Blanc via Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit – A Three Monts Ascent
*An alpine adventure from Refuge des Cosmiques to the summit of Mont Blanc, descending via the Goûter route.*
Distance: Approximately 17 km
Elevation Gain: Approximately 1,500 m
Total Time: 10 hours
Starting Point: Refuge des Cosmiques
Route: Mont Blanc du Tacul – Mont Maudit – Mont Blanc – Dôme du Goûter
Weather: Clear skies with windy conditions
Team: Three mountaineers, travelling roped together throughout
An Early Start in the Mont Blanc Massif
There is something quite special about setting off into the high mountains in the early hours of the morning, particularly when the conditions are in your favour.
Our ascent of Mont Blanc via the Three Monts route began at 2:00 am from the Refuge des Cosmiques. Stepping outside the refuge, we were greeted by beautifully clear skies, a welcome surprise and the perfect start to what would become a fantastic day in the mountains.
Our objective was to reach the summit of Mont Blanc via Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit, before descending towards the Dôme du Goûter and continuing down the Goûter route.
We were a team of three, consisting of two experienced mountaineers and one with slightly less experience. Given the glaciated terrain and the nature of the route, we remained roped together as a team throughout the entire journey.
The First Climb – Mont Blanc du Tacul
Leaving the Refuge des Cosmiques, the initial descent onto the glacier was relatively straightforward. We followed the established tracks across the snow towards the imposing slopes of Mont Blanc du Tacul.
Even in the darkness, the scale of the mountain was impressive.
The ascent of Tacul is long and steep, requiring a sustained effort as the route winds its way upwards through heavily crevassed terrain.
Conditions were favourable, with a low assessed avalanche risk, although the mountain still demanded our full attention.
We encountered two or three particularly large open crevasses during the ascent. Fortunately, the established route crossed these on solid snow bridges, allowing us to negotiate each one without complications.
The climb was tiring, with a series of traverses and steeper sections gradually taking us higher onto the mountain.
Rather than climbing directly to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul, we followed the established traverse approximately 150 metres below its summit, continuing towards the Col du Maudit.
Mont Maudit – The Technical Challenge
Before leaving the refuge, we had spoken with one of the hut guides about the conditions higher on the route.
We were particularly interested in the steep section on Mont Maudit, which we understood could present some difficulties.
As we approached the col, it became clear that this would be the most technical section of our ascent.
The steep snow and ice required the use of two ice axes, and we spent approximately 200 metres of climbing negotiating the slope.
Although the climbing was manageable in the conditions we encountered, it demanded concentration, secure axe placements and careful movement as a roped team.
The section seemed to go on for quite some time, and reaching the ridge above was a very welcome moment.
There is always a sense of satisfaction when you complete a technical section of a route, particularly knowing that you still have a significant amount of climbing ahead.
With Mont Maudit behind us, our attention turned towards the final ascent of Mont Blanc.
The Final Push Towards Mont Blanc
From the ridge, we continued along the established route, following the deep foot trenches that had formed in the snow.
In the distance, we could see the headlights of several other groups making their way towards the summit.
It is an incredible sight in the early morning darkness, watching small lines of light moving slowly across the vast alpine landscape.
The route traversed towards the final slopes of Mont Blanc, where the character of the climbing began to change.
After the steep, technical sections and occasionally narrow snow ledges encountered on Tacul and Maudit, the final ascent felt considerably more straightforward.
The last climb took approximately an hour, following a series of zigzags up the broad snow slopes towards the summit.
Although the altitude and accumulated fatigue were certainly noticeable, the climbing itself was much simpler than the terrain we had already negotiated.
By now, the sun had risen, illuminating the surrounding peaks and glaciers.
The views were becoming increasingly spectacular.
Mont Blanc Summit – 7:11 am
At exactly 7:11 am, we reached the summit of Mont Blanc.
We had been moving for just over five hours since leaving the Refuge des Cosmiques, and the sun had risen approximately an hour earlier.
Standing at 4,805 metres, surrounded by clear skies and the enormous panorama of the Alps, was a fantastic reward for the effort of the morning.
After hours of climbing in darkness, negotiating crevasses and ascending steep snow and ice, reaching the highest point in the Alps was an incredible moment.
The weather had been remarkably kind to us. Despite the wind, the skies remained clear, allowing us to enjoy uninterrupted views across the surrounding mountains.
It was certainly one of those occasions where the conditions, the route and the experience all came together.
Descending via the Goûter Route
Rather than retracing our ascent over Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc du Tacul, we chose to complete a traverse of the mountain.
Our descent took us along the Bosses Ridge towards the Dôme du Goûter, following the established route down the western side of Mont Blanc.
The Bosses Ridge provides a spectacular high-altitude descent, with exposed sections and impressive views across the surrounding glaciers.
We continued towards the Goûter route and eventually made our way down towards the valley, where we caught the train back to Chamonix.
The descent completed a fantastic journey across the mountain, combining the technical challenges of the Three Monts ascent with the classic Goûter descent.
A Memorable Day in the Alps
Our total journey took approximately 10 hours, covering around 17 kilometres with approximately 1,500 metres of ascent.
The Three Monts route is a magnificent way to climb Mont Blanc, offering a varied and demanding mountaineering experience.
From the crevassed slopes of Mont Blanc du Tacul to the steeper technical climbing on Mont Maudit, followed by the final ascent of Mont Blanc itself, the route provides an incredible combination of alpine terrain.
What made this particular day so memorable was the weather, the excellent conditions we encountered and the opportunity to complete the traverse as a team.
Although we were fortunate with the conditions, this is a serious high-altitude mountaineering route. Crevasses, snow bridges, steep ice, avalanche exposure, altitude and rapidly changing weather all require careful assessment, suitable equipment and appropriate experience.
The conditions we experienced were specific to our ascent and should never be assumed to represent the mountain on another day.
For me, this was a fantastic example of why I enjoy spending time in the mountains.
The early start, the physical challenge, the technical sections and finally standing on the summit as the morning sun illuminated the Alps made it a day to remember.
A truly memorable ascent of Mont Blanc via the Three Monts route.
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